Make a tiny Halloween witch with a soft peach face, rust-colored ringlets, an exaggerated pointed black hat, a flared black dress, and little orange-edged boots. The embroidered white spiderweb and orange waist stripe give this miniature its distinctive costume. The design is inspired by the visible features of the supplied reference, but its stitch counts and assembly method are newly drafted rather than recovered from that photograph.
A palm-sized crocheted witch with a tall black hat, copper-colored curls, and a spiderweb dress.
Pattern Overview
Pattern Overview
- Skill level
- Confident beginner; small-piece assembly and surface embroidery
- Finished size
- Approximately 8–9 cm (3.1–3.5 in) tall, including hat
- Yarn weight
- Sport-weight cotton, category 2
- Recommended hook
- 2.0 mm (US steel 0), or size producing firm fabric
- Terminology
- US crochet terms
- Construction
- Separate head, dress/body, hat, 2 arms, 2 boot/leg units, and 10 hair spirals; sewn together
- Difficulty
- moderate
- Main techniques
- Magic ring, continuous rounds, sc, increases, invisible decreases, BLO, slip stitch, and embroidery
The sample proportions are deliberately chibi: a rounded face about 2.5 cm across, slim limbs, a shallow skirt, and a tall tapered hat. Fabric must be tight enough to keep polyester stuffing from showing. Estimated working time varies with experience and does not establish that the design has been tested.
Materials
Materials
- Sport-weight smooth cotton yarn, black: about 15 g for dress, hat, and boots
- Sport-weight smooth cotton yarn, peach: about 6 g for face, arms, and legs
- Sport-weight smooth cotton yarn, burnt orange or rust: about 4 g for curly hair
- Sport-weight smooth cotton yarn, bright pumpkin orange: about 2 g for hatband, waistband, and boot soles
- A short length of light gray yarn for the underskirt edge
- White embroidery floss for the spiderweb; black embroidery floss for eyes; a short peach/off-white strand for the nose
- 2.0 mm crochet hook; yarn needle; small scissors; stitch marker; removable pins
- A small amount of polyester stuffing and a ruler or flexible measuring tape
Quantities and target dimensions are planning estimates, not measurements from a physically crocheted sample. Use embroidered eyes rather than plastic eyes for the photographed style.
Crochet Abbreviations
Crochet Abbreviations
- MR
- Magic ring: adjustable loop into which the first stitches are worked; securing chain does not count
- ch
- Chain
- sc
- Single crochet, inserted under both top loops unless otherwise specified
- inc
- Work 2 sc into the same stitch; consumes 1 stitch, makes 2
- dec
- Invisible single-crochet decrease: take front loops of next 2 stitches and complete 1 sc; consumes 2, makes 1
- BLO
- Back loop only of the next stitch
- sl st
- Slip stitch
- st/sts
- Stitch/stitches
- [ ] × n
- Repeat the bracketed instruction the stated number of times
Before You Begin
This original construction has not been physically test-crocheted. Check target gauge and dimensions on your own work before relying on them. Generated photographs illustrate the design and broad working stages; they are not evidence of a tested physical sample. Review hook placement in any illustrated stitch sequence against the written directions.
Work in continuous, unturned rounds unless a step says otherwise. Mark the first stitch after every round. Chains never count as a stitch; there are no turning chains in this design. Work through both loops except where BLO is explicitly required. The first round of each piece begins in a magic ring. Move the marker without crocheting into it.
For a starting density, aim for about 11 sc across 3 cm (1.2 in) and 12 sc rounds over 3 cm on a firmly stuffed, worked-in-the-round sample. These are estimated target values: round circumference also depends on stuffing and tension. The 30-stitch head should measure roughly 8.2 cm around and 2.6 cm across, allowing for curvature. If the diameter is over 3 cm, try a smaller hook before changing counts. Lay the unstuffed dress flat; it should be roughly 3–3.5 cm across the hem.
Small stitched details, stray yarn ends, stuffing, and optional hanging hardware can pose risks. This decorative miniature is not certified as a baby toy; keep it away from unsupervised infants and pets. Avoid tightly overstuffing the head, which can distort the embroidered face.
Complete Crochet Pattern
Step 1 — Make the head in peach
Place the two black embroidered eyes between rounds 8 and 9, about 5 stitches apart. Use two small vertical satin stitches per eye; keep both eyes on the same horizontal line. Add one short horizontal peach/off-white nose stitch centered a round below. Do the embroidery while the shaping still allows you to hide yarn tails within the head, or carefully enter from the future hairline after closure.
Step 2 — Practice the adjustable magic ring
Use black yarn for the hat or dress first round. A ring starts with a crossed working strand and an independent tail; secure the ring with a chain, then place the specified stitches into its open center. The chain is not part of the stitch count. The numbered illustration depicts successive stages of forming a ring and starting the initial round; match the final stitch count to the actual piece you are beginning.

Step 1 (top-left): Cross black yarn into an adjustable loop while keeping the tail separate. Step 2 (top-middle): Insert the hook beneath the loop and catch working yarn. Step 3 (top-right): Pull up a loop and secure the start. Step 4 (bottom-left): Crochet into the still-open ring. Step 5 (bottom-middle): Continue the first-round stitches, moving around the center. Step 6 (bottom-right): Tighten the separate tail to close the ring, then count the round's required stitches.
Step 3 — Crochet the dress and torso in black
This body is a flared hollow shell. Its narrower top is sewn underneath the head; its lower opening is partially closed around the two boot/leg units in assembly. Use black yarn unless a color change is noted.
The skirt opening has 36 stitches; do not fill it heavily. Press the side edges outward with your fingertips. If you want the black hem to read more prominently, keep the gray round tucked just below the black round. The orange stripe is made during the work rather than added as a separate belt.
Step 4 — Make two peach arms
Make 2 identical arms. Fasten off with at least 12 cm of sewing yarn. Each arm should measure roughly 1.5–1.8 cm long and will hang just beyond the orange waist stripe. Slight curvature from the spiral is acceptable.
Step 5 — Make two boot-and-leg pieces
Start each at the boot sole in pumpkin orange; transition to black for the shoe and peach for the visible leg. Use exactly the same rounds for both units.
Make 2. Add only a wisp of stuffing in the black toes and leave each peach leg hollow enough to sew through. Flatten the peach opening to approximately 4 stitches wide. If the sole flares too much, reduce stuffing before altering the round count.
Step 6 — Shape the pointed witch hat
The hat is worked from tip to brim with black yarn. There is no stuffing; it should sit over the head and ringlets. The short repeated straight rounds create a stepped cone rather than an impractically sharp solid spike.
Using pumpkin orange yarn and a yarn needle, surface-stitch a one-round-deep band around round 18, just above the brim expansion. Add a tiny gray rectangular buckle with four short stitches at the front center. Bend the tip slightly to one side; no wire is needed. Check that the 36-stitch hat base sits above, not over, the embroidered eyes.
Step 7 — Crochet ten rust-colored curls
Make 10 separate curls, distributed as 5 on each side of the face. For each curl, ch 8; beginning in the second chain from the hook, work 2 sc in each of the 7 chains (14 sc total). Fasten off leaving a 9–10 cm sewing tail. The doubling makes a compact spiral. Do not join the curls into a cap or attach them to the hat itself; they will be anchored individually along the head's hairline.
Lay out one head, one body, one hat, two arms, two boot/leg units, and ten curls. Confirm left/right symmetry and that the hat covers the hair attachments without obscuring either eye. The web is easiest to stitch while the skirt can still be held flat.
Assembly and Finishing
- Embroider the spiderweb. With thin white floss, choose a panel on the right-front of the black skirt. Mark a small center point between body rounds 8 and 9. Stitch four spokes crossing at the center, each extending about 5–7 mm, then connect adjacent spokes with two offset polygonal arcs. Keep thread tension gentle so the skirt does not pucker. Secure each end on the inside.
- Attach the legs. Arrange the two peach leg openings along the lower front/inside edge of the dress with roughly 4 skirt stitches between them. Stitch each flattened opening to the inner fabric around rounds 10–11, ensuring both orange boot soles point forward. Add a tiny amount of stuffing above them if needed, not inside the hem.
- Join head to torso. Center the body's 12-stitch neck on the underside of the closed head and whipstitch through each neck stitch and a corresponding small bite of head fabric. Pass the yarn twice around the full circumference and hide the knot inside.
- Attach arms. Sew the flattened top of each arm to opposite sides of body round 3. Angle them gently downward; check both hands reach approximately the top half of the skirt.
- Fix the curls. Stitch five curls along each temple and back-side hairline, about head rounds 5–7. Leave the face clear. Tuck one or two curls toward the back to help the hat fit, and hide all attachment tails inside the head.
- Fit and secure the hat. Center the orange hatband over the forehead, with its edge slightly above the eyes. Sew the black hat brim to hair/head at four discreet points—front, back, and both sides—rather than stretching it tight. Curve the tip slightly, then weave in every end.
Avoid ironing the stuffed head or flattening the curls. With the boots aligned and the hat seated, measure the full height again. An output outside 8–9 cm means gauge or stuffing tension differs; this does not automatically mean the stitch count is wrong.
Customization Ideas
Troubleshooting
The head is noticeably larger than the hat opening
Possible cause: Loose gauge, excessive head stuffing, or tighter hat tension
The spiderweb gathers the skirt
Possible cause: Embroidery spokes were pulled too tight or use bulky yarn
One boot points sideways
Possible cause: The flattened leg opening twisted during sewing
The hat tip collapses or the brim curls
Possible cause: Loose tension in the early rounds or uneven brim tension
Care Instructions
Cleaning
Drying and reshaping
Storage
Frequently Asked Questions
Questions You Might Have
Conclusion
Your little witch is ready for a Halloween shelf, craft display, or seasonal ornament. Count each component before assembly, let the hat and ringlets frame the face, and keep the delicate spiderweb embroidery relaxed.

The completed miniature witch from additional angles, showing her pointed hat, shaped skirt, matching boots, and curled hair.




