A gently curling point, a bright orange belt, and a tiny smiling face turn this crochet witch hat into a cheerful Halloween ornament. The purple version is inspired by the shape and color placement visible in the supplied photo; the construction below is newly drafted rather than recovered from that photograph. It is a decorative miniature for a shelf or seasonal display, not a hat for a person.
A miniature purple witch hat with a curled point, orange band, dark buckle, and friendly stitched expression.
Pattern Overview
Pattern Overview
- Skill level
- Confident beginner; small rounds and precise embroidery
- Finished size
- About 7.3 cm (2.9 in) high and 6.3 cm (2.5 in) across brim
- Yarn weight
- Sport-weight smooth cotton, category 2
- Recommended hook
- 2.75 mm (US C/2 approximately)
- Terminology
- US crochet terms
- Construction
- One continuous top-down cone and attached brim; separate sewn belt
- Difficulty
- moderate
- Main techniques
- Magic ring, continuous sc, increases, back-loop brim, sewing, embroidery
Materials
Materials
- Sport-weight cotton yarn: purple approximately 15 g (about 35–45 m); orange approximately 3 g (about 7–10 m)
- Sport-weight dark charcoal yarn or embroidery floss: approximately 1 m for buckle and mouth
- Small amount of pink embroidery floss for two cheeks
- 2.75 mm crochet hook, stitch marker, tapestry needle, sharp embroidery needle, scissors
- A small pinch of polyester stuffing for the cone; optional but useful for shaping
- Two 5 mm black sew-on beads for eyes, OR black embroidery thread for embroidered eyes; sample styling depicts shiny eyes
Quantities and gauge are estimates for a 7 cm ornament, not values measured from a crocheted sample. Avoid loose eye hardware around children or pets.
Crochet Abbreviations
Crochet Abbreviations
- MR
- magic ring: adjustable yarn loop worked into before pulling the tail shut
- ch
- chain; the turning chain never counts as a stitch
- sc
- single crochet under both top loops, unless BLO is specified
- inc
- work 2 sc into the same stitch (uses 1; produces 2)
- BLO
- back loop only: work under the loop farther from you
- sl st
- slip stitch: pull yarn through the entry stitch and active loop
- st/sts
- stitch/stitches
- rnd
- round
Before You Begin
This original draft has not been physically test-crocheted. Check the target gauge and measurements as you work. AI-generated photographs illustrate the intended look and general yarn-work stages; they are not proof that every shown hook position or stitch matches a verified physical sample.
Work a 10 cm square of single crochet in continuous-style rows or turned rows with the proposed yarn and hook, then measure a central 4 cm square after relaxing and lightly blocking the fabric. Aim for approximately 17 sc and 24 rows/rounds per 4 cm (1.6 in). A small gauge square is more reliable than measuring the very narrow hat tip. At that target density, the 84-stitch brim perimeter is about 19.8 cm and its approximate circular diameter is 19.8 ÷ π = 6.3 cm; 44 worked rounds are approximately 7.3 cm high. Shaping and blocking can shift these figures. All hat rounds are unjoined spirals, worked right side out, without turning. Place a marker in the first stitch of every round. The top begins with four stitches; take care not to miss the very small first rounds. Use both loops for ordinary stitches. Only Round 42 uses BLO, intentionally creating the corner where the cone transitions into the brim. Every repeat described below consumes all stitches in the previous round. This ornament is not for wearing, and small eyes, beads and fibers can be hazardous if detached.
Complete Crochet Pattern
Step 1 — Make the adjustable purple crown tip
With purple yarn make one MR. Leave an unusually long beginning tail (about 15 cm) to help bend and secure the point after the hat is complete. No securing chain counts as a stitch.
Keep the first few rounds compact. The tip should resemble a short, flexible narrow tube widening slowly into a cone, not a flat circle. The first six image panels illustrate a starting ring and the gradual change into a pointed crocheted shape; use the written round counts for exact stitch placement.
Step 1 (top-left): hold the starting purple yarn loop open for the crown. Step 2 (top-middle): work the hook into the forming first-round stitches. Step 3 (top-right): see the compact circular section with the working loop at the edge. Step 4 (bottom-left): continue forming the narrow cone with the active hook. Step 5 (bottom-middle): add height through the tapered crown rounds. Step 6 (bottom-right): inspect the developing curved point before making the full brim. These photographic stages are illustrative rather than an exact stitch-by-stitch demonstration.
Step 2 — Widen the cone evenly
For every odd-numbered increase round from Round 7 to Round 39, work the stated number of ordinary sc followed by an increase, twice. Every following even-numbered round is plain sc. This creates two new stitches per increase round, a smooth sloping cone, and a little flexibility for its characteristic bend.
At the end of Round 41 you must have 42 stitches around the bottom of the cone. Its base circumference should be approximately 9.9 cm (3.9 in) at the stated gauge. The height of the crocheted cone is approximately 6.8 cm (2.7 in) before brim rounds and shaping.
Step 3 — Form the broad flat brim
Do not fasten off and do not stuff the brim. The first brim increase is through the back loop only. This leaves a neat ridge at the crown base so the brim projects outward rather than continuing the conical slope.
Finish with a sl st into the next stitch solely to smooth the final edge; this extra joining action is not a new counted brim round. Cut a 15 cm tail and draw it through. Gently spread the brim into a circle and check its intended diameter of about 6.3 cm. A slightly rippled rim can be pinned flat for gentle blocking.
Step 4 — Crochet the fitted orange belt
The belt is a separate narrow rectangle. Its target length is the 42-stitch cone circumference (about 9.9 cm) and it sits immediately above the brim ridge. The face must remain visible above it.
Wrap the strip around the lowest full crown round, above the brim corner, with Row 3 facing outward. Join its short ends by sewing stitch to stitch; do not overlap several stitches or the belt will be too tight. If the belt is longer than the actual crown circumference, redo the foundation with one or two fewer chains, keeping all three rows the same length.
Step 5 — Add the dark buckle and expressive face
For the centered buckle, stitch a neat 9 mm wide by 7 mm tall charcoal rectangle over the front middle of the belt: three short horizontal surface stitches at its top and bottom and two short vertical sides. The outline is intentionally simple rather than a sewn-on plastic buckle. Keep an orange patch visible inside the dark outline. Do not create additional hardware. Position the eyes symmetrically on the purple face about two or three crown rounds above the orange band, separated by approximately 10–12 mm. Sew both 5 mm beads firmly through several yarn fibers, knot on the interior, and pull the tails inside before any stuffing is added. Alternatively, embroider black satin-stitch eyes without beads. Make a small black V-shaped smile midway between and one round beneath them; work two short pink cheek stitches at the outer corners.
Assembly and Finishing
Because the crown and brim are one crocheted piece, there is no brim seam to sew. Check that the belt seam lies at the back, that the buckle sits exactly across the front center, and that the eyes and smile face forward. Tack the belt in four places—front, back, and each side—using orange yarn and small nearly invisible stitches; catch only the crown loops so the stitches do not show inside the front face. If the cone will collapse, push a very small pinch of stuffing through its open underside, guiding it toward the middle while keeping the tip flexible; do not overstuff it or force the brim into a dome. The underside remains open: this is a tabletop ornament, not a closed plush ball. To create the bend seen in the design, curve the upper 1–1.5 cm of cone toward one side and run the long starting tail down through two neighboring stitches to hold the angle. Secure that tail inside the crown, trim the remaining ends, and reshape the brim flat. Steam lightly only if your yarn label allows it; never iron directly onto cotton stitches or plastic beads.
Customization Ideas
Troubleshooting
Cone widens unevenly or forms corners
Possible cause: Both increases are stacked in the same vertical lines or a repeat is missed
Brim cups upward
Possible cause: Gauge is tighter than intended, or an increase round was omitted
Orange belt gaps or buckles
Possible cause: 42-stitch strip is not matching the finished cone circumference
Hat tip will not stay curled
Possible cause: The top has been packed with stuffing or the anchor tail was not secured
Care Instructions
Cleaning
Drying
Storage
Frequently Asked Questions
Questions You Might Have
Conclusion
This little witch hat brings together a neatly tapered spiral, a flat contrasting brim, and a few carefully placed facial details. Once the counts are checked and the tip is gently shaped, the small finished ornament is ready to add a playful accent to a Halloween display.
Completed purple witch hat from a slightly different view, with its orange belt, charcoal buckle, curved tip, and friendly face.
